RENATO MOLINO, 76, EMBODIES THE HISTORY AND TRADITION OF BAROLO. WORKING WITH A RESPECT OF THE ENVIRONMENT AND HIS WINES THAT IS NOT THE PRODUCT OF FASHIONABLE TRENDS IN THE WINE MARKET, BUT OF THE FACT THAT HE CARRIES FORWARD AN APPROACH TO THE LAND THAT PREDATES EXTRACTIVE AND EXPLOITATIVE PRACTICES, RENATO, NOW AIDED BY HIS FOUR DAUGHTERS (“CHIARA, IN PARTICULAR, WHO STUDIED OENOLOGY,” HE SAYS, “HAS A BETTER NOSE THAN ME”) MAKES A BAROLO THAT HAS NEVER EVEN SEEN THE SHADOW OF A FRENCH BARRIQUE. A VELVETY JUICE THAT ON THE NOSE PRESENTS NOTES OF TRUFFLE AND ROSES, CONFIRMED ON THE PALATE IN WHAT TASTES LIKE A TRUE MOUTHFUL OF THE HISTORY OF PIEDMONT WINEMAKING. HIS FOUR CUVÉES INCLUDE: ONE BAROLO BLEND, TWO CRU BAROLOS (ROCCHE DELL’ANNUNZIATA AND VALIERO), AND ONE DECLASSIFIED NEBBIOLO (SPLUVA).