RENATO MOLINO, 76, EMBODIES THE HISTORY AND TRADITION OF BAROLO. WORKING EXCLUSIVELY WITH NEBBIOLO PLANTED ACROSS THE VILLERO AND ROCCHE DELL’ANNUNZIATA CRUS, RENATO CARRIES FORWARD AN APPROACH TO VITICULTURE THAT PREDATES EXTRACTIVE AND EXPLOITATIVE PRACTICES. IN THE CELLAR, RENATO, NOW AIDED BY HIS FOUR DAUGHTERS (“CHIARA, IN PARTICULAR, WHO STUDIED OENOLOGY,” HE SAYS, “HAS A BETTER NOSE THAN ME”), NEVER INTRODUCED FRENCH BARRIQUES AND ONLY AGES THE WINE IN LARGE SLAVONIAN OAK BARRELS. RENATO MOLINO PRODUCES A TOTAL OF FOUR WINES: A BAROLO MADE WITH GRAPES FROM ALL OF HIS VINEYARDS, TWO CRU BAROLOS (ROCCHE DELL’ANNUNZIATA AND VILLERO), AND ONE VINO ROSSO THAT IS ALSO 100% NEBBIOLO (SPLUVA). HIS WINES HAVE DISTINCTIVE AND PERSISTENT NOTES OF TRUFFLE AND ROSES ON THE NOSE, CONFIRMED ON THE PALATE IN WHAT TASTES LIKE A TRUE MOUTHFUL OF PIEMONTE.