new arrivals: RAREFRATTE, LORENZO NEGRO

*

new arrivals: RAREFRATTE, LORENZO NEGRO *

RAREFRATTE - Breganze, Veneto

At the foothills of the Asiago plateau, in the hills of Breganze, in the province of Vicenza, lies Rarefratte, a small family-run estate owned and operated by Cristian Moresco. The surrounding landscape is characterized by volcanic ridges and sedimentary rock formations, with predominantly clay-rich soils. Situated at around 220 metres above sea level, the vineyards benefit from a distinctive microclimate shaped by the meeting of warm and cold air currents, creating conditions that bring both complexity and unpredictability to the growing season.

Born and raised among his family's vineyards, Cristian grew up with viticulture deeply rooted in his family history. His grandfathers were both involved in the local wine trade, one as a grower and the other as a grape producer. After studying agriculture and later sociology, Cristian returned to his family's land in 2012, taking over the vineyards and establishing Rarefratte. From the beginning, his ambition was not simply to make wine, but to preserve a viticultural heritage that was gradually disappearing.

The heart of the project is the recovery of ancient indigenous varieties from the Breganze area, some of which were on the brink of extinction. Through years of research, conversations with local farmers and massal selection, Cristian began propagating six historic varieties: Gruaja, Ottocai, Pedevenda, Sciampagna, Groppella and Vespaiola. While the new vineyards were taking shape, he carried out small-scale vinifications of each variety to better understand their individual characteristics and potential.

Today, Rarefratte farms its vineyards organically, working without synthetic chemicals and harvesting by hand. In the cellar, Cristian follows the same philosophy, relying on spontaneous fermentations with indigenous yeasts, ageing primarily in concrete, and avoiding clarification and filtration. Sulphites are used sparingly, only when necessary. His approach is deliberately restrained, allowing the grapes and the character of these often-overlooked varieties to speak for themselves.

More than anything, Rarefratte is a project about biodiversity and the preservation of local identity. Through Cristian's work, these forgotten grapes are finding their way back into the vineyards and, ultimately, into the bottle.

LORENZO NEGRO - Monteu Roero, Piemonte

On the northern bank of the Tanaro river, in the hills of Monteu Roero, lies the estate of Lorenzo Negro, in the small hamlet of Sant’Anna. The vineyards sit atop the Serra Lupini hill, at approximately 300 metres above sea level, surrounding the winery in a single, continuous parcel. The soils are characteristic of the Roero, composed of sand, silt and clay, with an abundance of marine fossils that bear witness to the area's ancient geological history. These sandy, marine-origin soils are particularly well suited to Arneis and Nebbiolo, lending the wines a distinctive combination of freshness, minerality and structure.

Although the Negro family has been involved in wine for generations, Lorenzo established his own winery and bottled its first vintage in 2006. Working with a strong connection to the territory, he has gradually developed an estate of eight hectares, with Arneis and Nebbiolo forming the backbone of production, alongside Barbera and Dolcetto. His work, now a benchmark for the region, has been helped by the youthful vision and talent of Alessandro Bovio, and later Manuele Priolo, both of whom have contributed to shaping the wines before developing their own projects.

Lorenzo's approach is rooted in a straightforward belief that the Roero deserves to be understood on its own terms, rather than constantly measured against its more celebrated neighbor, the Langhe. While Nebbiolo is often associated with the powerful, structured expressions of Barolo and Barbaresco, the sandy soils of the Roero produce a different interpretation: more aromatic and approachable in their youth, yet capable of considerable depth and longevity. The same attention is given to Arneis, the area's historic white grape, which Lorenzo explores through both still wines and quite unique traditional-method sparkling wines.

In the cellar, the approach varies according to the character of each wine. Fermentations take place primarily in stainless steel, while selected bottlings undergo ageing in old French oak barriques and larger casks. Particular attention is given to extended affinamento, both in the cellar and in bottle, allowing the wines to develop complexity without losing their connection to the fruit and the underlying vineyard character.

The estate's portfolio ranges from straightforward expressions of Arneis, Barbera and Dolcetto to more ambitious single-vineyard selections, including Roero Prachiosso and Roero Riserva San Francesco. Arneis takes centre stage in the Riserva Sant’Anna as well as in Lorenzo's traditional-method sparkling wines, most notably the Riserva Dieci Anni, which spends ten years on its lees before release.

davide bentivegna: etna’s rare animal

*

davide bentivegna: etna’s rare animal *

Only from a distance could Ulysses look back and take in the vast, smoking slopes of Etna, and comprehend the magnitude of his enterprise, nodding to one of his friends, perhaps, and understanding for the first time the extent of the dangers they had undergone.

It must feel like that sometimes for Davide. Working day after day during growing season on the active volcano, feeling its rumble beneath his steps, hearing it roar and gurgle, sometimes waking in the night to see lava exploding into the night sky and spilling down the slopes, silently hoping it will spare his terraced vines.

And yet, after all the challenges of the season, navigating the mountain’s whims, and coaxing life from the volcanic soil, it is only in the quiet of the cellar — tasting with a friend, perhaps — that he fully realizes the scale of his achievement and the extraordinary gift of crafting wine on Etna for yet another vintage, of being around to taste it yet another year.

Davide snaps out of the story for a moment, as Etna sputters smoke into the air. Fire and myth, he says, remind us that life on this volcano has always demanded intelligence as much as strength: to navigate its smoke-filled craters, boiling lava fields, and its legendary threats, survival required quick thinking, daring, and a sharp mind. It is a mountain that tests all who encounter it, where every triumph — whether escaping a giant or harvesting from its jagged volcanic soils — is earned through wit as much as will.

On the steep terraces that climb up the northern slope of the volcano, as high as 1000 meters above sea level, Davide wanders amidst his vines, greener and lusher than you would expect from a land this warm, like a legendary creature from another time, a rare animal hopping between his several contrade or crus. Davide’s viticulture is careful and tiresome.

Davide’s favorite part of the myth is its ending, the escape. As Ulysses and what remained of his crew reached their ships and began to row to safety, Polyphemus, realizing he had been outwitted, hurled massive boulders into the sea, sending waves crashing around the fleeing ships. Sicilians recognize these boulders in the small ‘Cyclopean Isles’ off the coast of Catania, silent monuments to Ulysses’ life-saving cunning.

Davide Bentivegna knows the story of Ulysses on Mount Etna and he likes to recount it as we stroll through his alberello vines.

On the rugged coast below the volcano, Ulysses and his men once sought refuge after years at sea. Above them rose the mountain, smoking and restless, long believed to be the fiery forge of the cyclopes, where the one-eyed giants shaped thunderbolts for Zeus in chambers of molten stone.

It was there, in a cavern carved from black volcanic rock, that they encountered Polyphemus, the fiercest of them all. He led a tranquil life, herding sheep by day and drinking their milk by night, but when these strangers entered his cave, he turned violent. With a boulder rolled across the entrance, Ulysses and his crew were sealed inside, forced to watch as the giant began devouring them one by one.

Ulysses, ever cunning, chose wit over force. He poured the cyclop cup after cup of dark, intoxicating wine — a gift carried from his travels — until his single eye grew heavy and finally closed. In that silence, Ulysses and his men drove a burning stake into the monster’s brow. Responding to his cry, the other cyclopes moved the boulder to come to his help, while, clinging to the bellies of Polyphemus’ sheep, Ulysses and his crew slipped past the stone and out into the light…

2025 harvest report

*

2025 harvest report *

GROWING SEASON IS NEVER FREE OF TROUBLE AND ITALY HAS HAD SOME PRETTY CHALLENGING YEARS OF LATE AS FAR AS CLIMATE AND DISEASE ARE CONCERNED, BUT THE YEAR 2025 MAY SURPRISE US WITH A HISTORIC VINTAGE!

Let’s explore it: From North to South…ish.

In Breganze (Veneto), our friends at Rarefratte, Cristian and Arianna, just started harvesting last Sunday. The growing season was smooth up to July 20th, then hail came…followed by a lot of rain. Luckily they didn’t lose too much crop, but the 2025 will probably produce wines that will be low in alcohol and high in acidity…can’t be too mad at that…

Over in Nanto, still in Veneto, Fora is definitely feeling climate change. For the first time ever they started harvest as early as August 20th. Still, the growing season was good: a warm spring, and a very warm June with little rain…maybe too little for the Garganega, which felt the stress in a few plants, while the Tai Rosso didn’t seem to mind. Then, finally, it rained for a whole day (40 mm) on August 2nd “a beautiful slow rain, it felt like fall,” says Giovanni, and then the scorching sun again, giving Fora fully mature and heavy clusters. “The grapes are beautiful,” Giovanni concluded, “with beautiful color and beautiful skin.”

Moving West to Modena, there too, harvest started 15 days earlier than usual. In spite of this, Claudio Plessi is hopeful for what he believes is a promising new vintage. While we wait for this vintage to follow its course, we are about to welcome a shipment of Claudio’s wines to New York this very week. His Lambruscos and other sparklings stole everyone’s heart the first time around (and so did his still reds), and an even larger line-up will be sure to blow you away with its sparkle. More soon…

In Lazio, just outside of Roma, Riccardo Magno of La Torretta is similarly excited.He tells us that he hasn’t seen grapes as good looking as this year’s in many many years, but, he says….”let’s not jinx it!” The growing season this year did not bring as many challenges as the last, allowing Riccardo, who farms biodinamycally, to reduce treatments to a minimum (only 800gr of copper per hectare). The grapes have been harvested, and Riccardo says, “they are gorgeous, ready to ferment.”

All the way down to Sicily, now, where 2025, Fabio Signorelli tell us, will be a complex year to decipher. Different microregions, and even different vineyards within the same areas, had to face different challenges throughout the growing season. The last couple of years vineyards across theMediterranean witnessed vicious attacks of pathogenic funghi. This year, the peronosopora first attacked as early as March, but Fabio, who had a hunch, was able to brace his vineyards for impact and save them from a tragic destiny. Then, the heat came, and with it, easier conditions. The grapes now look “crunchy and healthy.” Harvest will start tomorrow for his rosato, while for the reds he will wait until October.

These are just some of the news from the many corners of Italy where our producers are working with, sometimes against, the challenging condition of a fast-changing environment to deliver excellence for yet another year. It is hard to capture the excitement in their voices and their words when they tell us about the year’s adventures…most times, from our New York offices, we just have to wait until we can uncork those time capsules that we call a bottle of wine and sample what it meant to toil, hope, experiment, despair, rejoice, and hardly ever rest for a whole growing season, all the way to harvest.

Here’s to another vintage…in bocca al lupo!

On to Piemonte. It was a year of experimentation in La Morra at Borgogno Rivata. For the first time, their Arneis, which still hasn’t debuted on the American market, was harvested in two phases: one earlier for higher acidity, and another about 10 days later for fuller ripeness. Winemaker Giovanni Mingolla will be playing with oxidation and aging under flor for this one, but it will take a while before we will be able to bring you the end result of this experiment. On the next shipment from the guys at Borgogno Rivata, however, you can expect a new favorite, Lumas, the latest addition to the Borgogno Rivata line-up: 80% Pelaverga and 20% Dolcetto. Aged in cement only, it is extremely vibrant and crunchy. A perfect option for a fresh red by the glass.

On the other side of La Morra, the growing season held a few challenges, with a hard-to-manage alternation of intense heat and strong rains. Towards the end of the growing season, however, Renato Molino’s vineyards were blessed by some very cold nights, ideal for the ripening of Nebbiolo and promising for the future of their Barolos. While their first shipment to the US, carrying the 2019 vintage will land in the fall, “our fingers are crossed,” says Chiara (Renato’s daughter), for a 2025 that promises low quantities and very high quality.

From Barolo to Barbaresco, Marco Viglino of La Vedetta had a sleepless night last week when a terrible storm swept over their hill, “but fortunately no hail, thank God!,” he told us. Harvest is yet to start, but 2025, says Marco, is definitely promising. A lot of water was left in the soil from last year and thanks to a sunny spring and summer, the grapes were able to ripen well, without any illnesses: “they look just great!” His Barbaresco will come to New York in the fall, and so will his Freisa (yes, exciting!) and his Barbera and…we just can’t wait!

Over in Roero, Lorenzo Negro was happy to be able to work with a few more collaborators in the vineyards this growing season, which allowed him to come to the point of harvest with “some truly stunning plants.” Lorenzo’s wines will land in New York for the first time in the next couple of days, and we couldn’t be more excited to welcome to the city the soul of Roero. To some, Roero is still a mystery, but the true connoisseurs of the bel paeseare not sleeping on this microregion were Nebbiolo and Arneis DOCGs produce outstanding wines year after year. Lorenzo, who has trained generations of young Roero winemakers, tells us that the 2025 is meeting all the parameters to become one of the "great vintages of Roero.”